You get to Bunes beach by taking a little ferry from the fishing village of Reine that drops you off with the mail for a cluster of clapboard houses called Vinstad at the top of the fjord.
You then walk half an hour over a ridge, at the top of which is stretch of an old stone road – like a Roman road – probably built to haul fishing boats over from the south to the north coast of Moskenesoy Island in search of cod.
Before you is this huge empty beach surrounded by vast dark mountainsides. A single massive whale vertebrae stands on the sand with drifts of pink sea rocket.
The swimming in the surf pounding in from Greenland is exhilarating. The temperature must have been around 9 degrees which made me glow even more.