Alma Beach is a frisbee-throw from Jaffa, the ancient town on the edge of Tel Aviv, Israel’s seaside second city. A few hundred meters away is the shattered concrete wreck of the Dolphinarium where a Hamas suicide bomber killed 21 teenagers at a disco in June 2001. It’s only 50 miles north of Gaza, half an hour from the West Bank, but a world away from Palestine life behind the Wall now stretching across the country.
Tel Aviv is a playground for hard-working Israelis with wonderful weather, superb modern food and a lively cafe culture. Even in late November it’s balmy.
Yet for stretches of the golden sands, a wicked current runs just metres off the coast. So while you can can paddle in the shallow, warm, clear waters, there is ‘no swimming’. The signs are there. It’s a beautiful but dangerous place.